Tasting Notes I
On 3/21/98 Anthony Dias Blue and I sat down to a slew of what were supposedly the best Zinfandels he had to taste. Blue is the Wine editor from Bon Appetite and one of the most famous tasters in the country. It took us about 3 hours to taste through these Zins and I've since sat down and drunk a few of these wines to see where they stood under more normal circumstance. Tastings, blind or otherwise do not necessarily isolate the best wines although they clearly isolate the worst ones.
These are my notes and ratings (Blue's ratings, for comparison, are in parens). My notes reflect more enthusiasm than "wine-write." I will not use the terms "gobs of fruit," "heaps of fruit," "jammy" nor "toasty oak" which I find particularly annoying when read it. I know the basic flavor difference between French Oak and American Oak and have no clue what the heck "toasty oak" is supposed to be. This term has become more of a writers syndrome than a descriptor. I'm particularly sensitized to this term because someone who writes the newsletter for K&L Liquors in California seems to think that every other wine is blessed with a toasty oak character. Since then the term has become an overused plague on the world or wine. I assume he likes this quality, whatever it is, and seems to have no synonyms in his/her vocabulary.
I will use the term "buttery" when describing certain Chardonnays but hope to god I don't run into any Zins that are "buttery!" These terms, among others such as "jammy" and "hints of (your favorite spice here)," will be avoided. The "hints" of this and that are also annoying. It either tastes like something or it doesn't. Wines do not hint, suggest, or beat-around-the bush regarding their flavors. They simply exhibit them. But I digress.
The problem with the good wines in this tasting is that they are almost impossible to find. They were either sold out instantly or are only available at the winery at full price.
Seghesio Home Ranch 1996 Alexander Valley
$18 14.1-percent alc.
This is Zinfandel, period. 95 (94)
Seghesio Old Vine 1996 Sonoma County -- (1895)
$20 14.2-percent alc.
Lots of new wood seems to have taken its toll on the overall amelioration of this wine....delicious but not in the same league as the other Seghesio wines tasted today. Blue thought this was clearly the best wine of the group. Ironically I preferred the other wines in the group although I profess to prefer oak on my Zins. I just didn't like this treatment as much as I liked the cleaner Zins from Seghesio. I need to taste this wine with food. 93 (95)
Seghesio San Lorenzo 1996 Alexander Valley
$20 14.3-percent alc.
This wine had the epitome of a Zin nose....not as incredible as the Home but available, I think. Stunning.. another perfect example....Alexander valley flavors. 94 (93)
Seghesio Sonoma 1996
$13 13.8-percent alc.
Tremendous and somewhat unusual nose....pretty to smell good example of what Zinfandel should be....good fruit....great fruit....but not close to the special designated wines. 90 (90)
Ferrari Carano --- 1995 Sonoma County
$16 14.4-percent alc.
Beautiful color nice nose, but uninspired....tasty well-made....functional....meachanicallu flawless but without excitement.... 89 (88)
La Crema -- 1995 -- reserve -- Sonoma Coast
$24 14.2-percent alc.
Falls apart on the palate....did not like this wine at all. 80 (88)
St. Francis 1995 --old vines -- Sonoma County
$22 14.2-percent alc.
Maybe the best nose in the tasting. Wines exudes n inviting quality. Black....beautiful wine....stunning ....wonderful wine....less dimensional than Greenwood .... new American Oak..I want this wine!! 95 (92)
Greenwood Ridge Vineyards -- Scherrer VIneyards -- 1996 -- Sonoma County
$18 14.1-percent
Award winner....nice, strong, exceptional nose with lingering multidimensional finish kick ass Zin....judicious use of good tasting wood. 95 (94)
Alderbrook -- OVOC -- 1996 -- Sonoma County
$16 14.1-percent
Great Zin nose....good flavors....mediocre finish..killer flavors during the taste..great wine in mouth....fascinating finish but deteriorates. 90 (91)
Haywood -- Los Chamizal Vineyard -- 1995 -- Sonoma Valley
$18 14.5-percent
Strong varietal character....although a little light....astringent 87 (87)
Murphy- Goode -- 1995 Dry Creek Valley/Alexander Valley -- Sonoma County
$16 14.1-percent
Better than I thought it would be although Blue is a fan of this winery and says I'm off-base with such thoughts. Deep nose but some alcohol aroma. Beautiful fruit. Delicious. 90 (90)
Gallo of Sonoma (White Label) 1995 (Barrel Aged) Sonoma County
$14 13.9-percent
Well made but slightly funky with reserved flavors. You sense it could be better. 87 (88)
Edizione Pennino -- 1995 Napa Valley
$22 14-percent
Well made....beautiful nose......Napa Valley flavors..stunning quality. 90/92
Cosentino -- Cigar Zin -- California 1996
$16 14.1-percent
Funky fruit and nose....cooked ..mediocre. 79 (77)
Rosenblum Cellars -- 1996 -- Richard Sauret Vineyard -- Paso Robles
$17 13.6-percent
A heavier style Zin nose....somewhat to my liking. Sits nicely on the palate. 90 (92)
Rosenblum Cellars -- 1996 -- Contra Costa County
$15 13.5-percent
Hell of a Zin nose....perfect in fact. This wine has excellent flavors but not the style I'm after. Long finish. 88 (90)
Shooting Star -- 1996 -- Lake County
$11 13-percent
Intense Zin nose, flavorful but leafy. 88 (86)
Steele -- Pacini -- 1995 Mendocino
$16 13-percent
Funky nose ..high fruit..pleasant finish with spice! 88 (88)
Steele -- Catfish Vineyard -- 1995 clear lake
$18 13-percent
Skunky herbaceous nose is slightly annoying..great tasting incredibly good tasting. Oaky with a long finish....late harvest style. 90 (89)
Steele -- DuPratt Vineyard -- 1995 Mendocino
$20 13-percent
Grapey distinctness -- total Zin nose, beautiful, Steels's favorite. great color. 90 (90)
Villa Mt. Eden -- Monte Rosso 1995
$20 15.6-percent
Incredibly light for such alcohol..boring..interesting candy flavor at finish good but disqualified for excess alcohol anyway. 88 (88)
Edmeades -- Eaglepoint Vineyards -- 1995
$29 15.2-percent
Another one over the top with too much alcohol. Candy style, very astringent, ethanol bouquet. 85 (90)
Boeger Walker Vineyards -- 1995 -- El Dorado
$15 14.5 -percent
Cinnamon nose. Jug wine. 80 (80)
Bogle 1995 California Old Vine Cuvee $11 13.7-percent
Boring with some fruit. Should be $7. 85 (79)
Sorbon Estate -- 1996 Cougar Hill -- Shenandoah Valley
$15 13.5-percent
Very pleasant with some nice Zin flavors in the Amador style. Some oak. 90 (87)
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entire website copyright (c) 1998 by John C. Dvorak